hi itsu and everyone,

Previously only myself and Hoppy have achieve this "pulsing effect" on the bulb.Both of us applied 60th sub-harmonics for the circuit.

2 days ago i found the exact video from "stivep1" of Akula translation which describe the pulsing effect of the waveform which looks like jumping up in "amplitude" and down.This
tallies with my own findings by connecting probe across 1.3uf capacitor after 3 turns."Please double ensure probe negative is always connected to earth side of capacitor"

Please jump to 5:48min of this video for the useful information.At 6:07min Akula describe the "fluctuation" /pulsing of the wave for the ou effect which is then translated by stivep1.

Akula video #5  translated by Wesley. ( Free Energy device)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPHipGkfSAY&list=UU1ZrGlkxBvG9WOwIs2eApLA

I can't decide if the multilayer "top or bottom" needs to be connected to earth.

Currently i am focus on creating a PCB which allow me to "switch" between divide by "60 or 50 or 3" (div by 3 base on old video tesla coil tuning) from antenna base on my circuit which was uploaded previously.
I will also be using SOT23 LTC1799 PWM generator in this pcb which can be selected to provide signal to my pwm generator using 74HC132.

Once PCB done next upcoming experiment i will focus on disconnectting 28 turns(2 wires) from toroid to multilayer.This multilayer coil 2 wire output will be connected to ultra fast full bridge rectifier which will be connected to bulb (As Ruslan describe 5 to 20watt bulb test) with capacitor connected in parallel for next upcoming testing stage.

I feel that we should not be using half wave at all which is currently using just 1 diode\2 diodes in parallel.This is not efficient at all.


 

Hi all,

I've not been experimenting for the last few days but today I resumed and discovered how to get the full URFA flashing lights effect. I used the ferrite rod tuning approach again but this time I disconnected one side of the push-pull primary winding. At three tuning points of the Kacher between 900KHz and 1.2MHz, I could get a very bright 40W lamp to flash on and completely off just by moving my hand towards the antenna, as shown by URFA in his video. Everything becomes highly sensitive to hand capacitance. I also extended the open end of the Kacher antenna by adding a short piece of wire which increased the brightness of the bulb. The 'sweet spot' tuning points are very sharp and its difficult stabilise the pulsing of the bulb. One of the three 'sweet spots' gave the best brightness, with 203V measured across the bulb. It is important that the two earths as shown on the Ruslan schematics and variants are completely isolated. My supply is still the 24V / 10A linear transformer PSU. As URFA mentioned in one of his posts, the device is not running OU, as the brighter the bulb, the more current is drawn from the supply. I electrical estimated efficiency at around 55%.

Hi all,

I've not been experimenting for the last few days but today I resumed and discovered how to get the full URFA flashing lights effect. I used the ferrite rod tuning approach again but this time I disconnected one side of the push-pull primary winding. At three tuning points of the Kacher between 900KHz and 1.2MHz, I could get a very bright 40W lamp to flash on and completely off just by moving my hand towards the antenna, as shown by URFA in his video. Everything becomes highly sensitive to hand capacitance. I also extended the open end of the Kacher antenna by adding a short piece of wire which increased the brightness of the bulb. The 'sweet spot' tuning points are very sharp and its difficult stabilise the pulsing of the bulb. One of the three 'sweet spots' gave the best brightness, with 203V measured across the bulb. It is important that the two earths as shown on the Ruslan schematics and variants are completely isolated. My supply is still the 24V / 10A linear transformer PSU. As URFA mentioned in one of his posts, the device is not running OU, as the brighter the bulb, the more current is drawn from the supply. I electrical estimated efficiency at around 55%.

Hi hoppy,

You may want to try either adding more bulbs say 300watts and try verify amp draw.Another approach try reducing duty cycle a little to sèe if bulb can be lit and check amp draw again....

Yes, I've done all that and bulb brightness always relates to amp draw.

Hi Hoppy
Is there any case of not properly tuned coils?
Have you verified that both grenade and inductor lines have the same HF peak?

 

Hi Hoppy
Is there any case of not properly tuned coils?
Have you verified that both grenade and inductor lines have the same HF peak?

Yes.

Hi

Hello; please resize images to 1024 width... it breaks formatting for the entire page if you post a huge picture.
if you really want ot share the high res use a link to another size plz... or zip or rar it...

Yes.

Then if you like you can try this to see if you have any different results.

In Ruslan's circuit add a second diode between grenade and ground, cathode at ground.
The 10uF cap straight to the ground.
Katcher's and mosfets negative straight also to ground.
Magnetic poles of both inductor and grenade to be on the same side during each pulse (important).
Inductor circuit without ground cause it is already polarized from yoke.

Happy experimenting

Then if you like you can try this to see if you have any different results.

In Ruslan's circuit add a second diode between grenade and ground, cathode at ground.
The 10uF cap straight to the ground.
Katcher's and mosfets negative straight also to ground.
Magnetic poles of both inductor and grenade to be on the same side during each pulse (important).
Inductor circuit without ground cause it is already polarized from yoke.

When you fire it normally you will see a difference at your output bulbs. The higher the Katcher's voltage the higher the effect. While firing Katcher you will see a decreasing of your mosfets consumption in parallel with more brighter bulbs. No capacitive effect of your hands except if you almost touch your inductor.
Happy experimenting

Jeg,

There is a power balance going on between the Kacher consumption and the grenade, so any change to one will affect the other. Its the total current consumption that needs to be monitored closely. I can see brighter bulbs with less mosfet consumption depending on how the device is tuned. The bottom line is that the device is electrically running at around 55% efficient.