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Author Topic: Tesla Switch need help  (Read 163747 times)

Groundloop

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #165 on: January 19, 2008, 03:29:17 PM »
@All,

I have four 4,8 Volt 2000mA Nickel Cadmium batteries. Does anybody here know a safe way of initial charging those batteries from a lab power supply? I do not have a NiCad charger so I need to make one. Any circuit drawings of a simple NiCad charger? I will be glad to get some help on this.

[EDIT] My NiCads are 700mA/h, not 2000mA as stated.

Groundloop.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2008, 05:34:36 PM by Groundloop »

Paul-R

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #166 on: January 19, 2008, 04:30:02 PM »
I'm wondering if you could post the theory of operation for the Tesla Switch.
Thank you.
Try this
http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Chapter6.pdf

Read page 18

...and then alter the URL to Chapter 1 for further information
which may be useful to know about at some future time.

Paul.
Sorry, fellas. I got this wrong. It should be:
http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Chapter5.pdf
(specifically: page 5 to page 16).
Paul.

gyulasun

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #167 on: January 19, 2008, 07:53:45 PM »
@All,

I have four 4,8 Volt 2000mA Nickel Cadmium batteries. Does anybody here know a safe way of initial charging those batteries from a lab power supply? I do not have a NiCad charger so I need to make one. Any circuit drawings of a simple NiCad charger? I will be glad to get some help on this.

Groundloop.

Hi,  here are two links: http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/ccharger.htm and http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Power/nicad.htm

There is a third one with the LM317 adjustable voltage regulator: http://www.dprg.org/projects/1999-05a/
You have a minimum of 4*4.8 V input voltage need + the required voltage drop of either the LM317 or the transistors, so you need to choose your power supply output accordingly. I think you need some heat sink on the active pass device too.

rgds, Gyula

Groundloop

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #168 on: January 19, 2008, 11:18:36 PM »
@Paul-R,

Thanks for providing a link to that pdf document.

@Gyulasun,

Thanks for providing the links to the NiCad chargers.

Groundloop.

Groundloop

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #169 on: January 31, 2008, 12:21:12 AM »
@All,

I finally got my tswitch soldered (minus the regulator).
Next step will be ordering the regulator IC and then make
a charger for the 4,8 Volt NiCad batteries. Will take some
time.

Groundloop.

plengo

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #170 on: January 31, 2008, 04:20:22 AM »
@Groundloop

Thaelin

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #171 on: January 31, 2008, 08:49:51 AM »
Hi
   Well that sure is a lot of trannies but if it works, great deal. I have finally decided to put together a relay powered one to play with. Had to pack the relays in foam to quiet them down. Was very surprised to find what I did.
   Using 4 4.5 ah 12v and driving a 1amp motor, I already have 4.5 hours run time logged and have dropped from 13v down to 12.8. I have a switch time of around 12 a second. I am depleting the batteries but at a very slow rate. At 1 amp, I should have killed the bats by now.
   So to conclude, I see this upping the run effective run time for the motor. As I intend to run an electric motor to power my bike, this should give me a greater distance of travel overall. Will look into solid state relays for the switching as they will trigger on 5 v and can use a 555 to run the pulse train with.
   The other board still has a heat problem with transistor 6 and I cannot figure out why. I have been over the circuit many times and its wired exactly as the diagram states.
   The only problem is if I lose a relay, I will have a dead short on one side every half cycle. Had to fuse between each pair and both sides as well. So far so good. More run time to see what will give.

   Next is to recharge and see how many consecutive hours run time the system will give without going below the 12.4 save level as these are the standard gel cells.

thaelin

Groundloop

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #172 on: January 31, 2008, 03:56:12 PM »
@Thaelin,

If you look at the circuit diagram (some pages back) then you will see that there is 8 diodes also.
I use TO-220 diodes so that I can avoid any heat sink. The other six TO-220 is hexfets.

If we use some math on your circuit:

4,5 A/h * 4 * 12 Volt = 216 W/h.  Motor 12V * 1 A/h = 12 W/h so ideal maximal run time is 18 Hours.
(Much sorther if you do not want to deplete the batteries below a certain level.) I think the best load you
should have is the C20 rate of your batteries, approx. 10 Watt/h.

Groundloop.

Groundloop

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #173 on: February 24, 2008, 11:12:31 AM »
Hi

Finally got my NiCad charger together.  :D

Next Job, soldering 4,8 Volt NiCad packs. Need four of them.
Then I must mount my electronic and batteries into a box.
Will take some time..............

Regards,
Groundloop.

Thaelin

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #174 on: February 26, 2008, 02:11:28 AM »
   Hi all:
   Well guess its time to lay it down for all to see. I have finished my 4 batt switch and it runs using relays at 20 cps. I will be subbing them with SS relays so I can up the transfer time. I am able to have a 3 amp motor run under load for extreme long times. This motor will be used for an electric bicycle. From estimates I am seeing around 100 miles and that is with 4.5 ah batts. I actually will be using 18 ah  on the bike. Nothing will tell better than the trip out the highway soon. The motor will be driven by pwm from the 4 batt switch.
   I did notice that I had no output from the tesla switch with the two caps in place. As soon as I removed them, I then had over 12v and high amps available from the FWB output. The motor I use right now is an old windshield wiper motor from a 80's vintage GM. I got the largest motor available and it has a worm gear to another gear reduction. I use a 8500uf 85v cap to pad the output during switch times.

thaelin

plengo

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #175 on: February 26, 2008, 04:45:34 AM »
@Thaelin

please, kill the thirst of our minds and show pictures of your setup.

Fausto.

passion1

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #176 on: February 26, 2008, 07:08:16 AM »
Thaelin

That's excellent!
Did you build your circuit according to the schematic of D3.pdf? (see attached)

Thaelin

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #177 on: February 26, 2008, 12:32:51 PM »
    >:(   Well after all my attempts to make a drawing for all of you all I could  was a bmp and cant upload them. Circuit maker saves in native format only "ckt" and not sure any of you can see it.  This is frustrating as heck. A simple thing and yet no cigar.
   The circuit in d3 had diodes I do not use. I simply use a SS relay for each batt connection and then trigger series on one side while parallel on the other. The inline caps have to go as they impede the flow. The SS relays will make the switching a seperate circuit from the motor. It could be run on the same one for the lights as well. No inductive kickback to kill the timer.

thaelin

passion1

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #178 on: February 26, 2008, 01:29:34 PM »
Thaelin

Thank you for sharing with all of us!

Here is a procedure to capture and save whatever is displayed on your screen:
Press the printscreen button on your keybord 'PrtSc'.
This will capture an image of your screen and save it on the computer's clipboard.
No, open Windows Paint (use Start, All programs, Accessories) and select 'Edit, Paste'.
Now the screen image that was captured will be transferred to the Paint program.
Now select 'File, Save' and Save as type JPEG because JPG files are much smaller than BMP's!
Hope this helps!

Thaelin

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Re: Tesla Switch need help
« Reply #179 on: February 26, 2008, 04:39:43 PM »
   Just taught the old dog a new trick   ;D. Didn't realize you could save as any but bmp. Why I never used it.

   So here for your enjoyment is the  screen capture of the designworks schematic. The switches are SS relays the same.
S1 is the master on off. S2,6,7 on and S3,4,5 off and alternate back and forth. Since the SS relay is internal led driven just need to use the direct output of the 555 timer and set for correct interval time. Standard PWM circuit used to drive the motor from the cap side of the bridge. Would most likely be a good idea to install a current limiter as well so you can set the level of I delivered to the motor or said device as a precaution. Actually very simple when you get to it.
   I have found why my transistor circuit was heating the #6 transistor. This unit transfers power back and forth like ac would. One direction the transistor works as it should. When it is reversed, it leaks so will never be viable. I have to question how the bedini one worked at all. Was not there so ..... water under the bridge. Mine, many hours of run time now. Just be sure to include the three fuses or circuit breakers. If you short a SS relay out it makes a dead short and poof goes the wires. Mechanical relays work ok but are very noisy and have to run around 10 cps to function equaly on both battery sets.
   I have not tried this part yet but will be adding to see how it fares out. From EVGRAY forum they talk of a diode plug for capturing emf. Will be trying to add this to keep the batt for the lights/PWM/555 circuit charged all the time. That way, all I have to do is charge the 4 main batts when needed.
   The last added feature is a programming plug that the charger connects to. When the run plug is in, normal operation. When removed and the charger plugged in, the batts are all wired to parallel status for charge.

And for the pic

later   thaelin