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[sterlinga]

Doug Furr asked me to see if I could get some clarification on what the damper things are for and how they mount.

My understanding is that they are to keep the thing from accellerating to destruction.

Any light you could shed on this would be appreciated.

Hi Alan,
quoted notes:
"...the unit runs faster without the magnokinetic Judson dampers. Typical stator speeds are 8000 rpm, rotor 2000. But the unit is quite unstable at those speeds, maybe due to the cheap bearings I used for the stators. But that's unknown, it could be that the bearing chatter actually contributes to the effect by some chaotic dynamical interaction. Don't ask me with what! [...]"

I added this to http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:OC_MPMM_Magnet_Motor#Magnokinetic_Judson_dampers

Is there somewhere that describes the details of how to build/install the magnokinetic Judson dampers?

Thanks

[CLaNZeR]

@ CLaNZer,

Would you mind providing me with your email address?  I understand you wish to keep it confidential, and I will honor that request.  Send to sterlingda {at} pureenergysystems.com.

Sorry for the delay, I can only give 18 hours a day for this project over the last week 
I really should go back to work instead of playing, but what the hell , that's one of the joys of being self employed. ummmmmmm no seriously I should go do some work..... Okay maybe next week LOL

My public email is clanzer@clanzer.co.uk please feel free to email me and I will help where I can.

Cheers

Sean.

[ken_nyus]

Doug Furr asked me to see if I could get some clarification on what the damper things are for and how they mount.

My understanding is that they are to keep the thing from accellerating to destruction.

Any light you could shed on this would be appreciated.

Hi Alan,
quoted notes:
"...the unit runs faster without the magnokinetic Judson dampers. Typical stator speeds are 8000 rpm, rotor 2000. But the unit is quite unstable at those speeds, maybe due to the cheap bearings I used for the stators. But that's unknown, it could be that the bearing chatter actually contributes to the effect by some chaotic dynamical interaction. Don't ask me with what! [...]"

I added this to http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:OC_MPMM_Magnet_Motor#Magnokinetic_Judson_dampers

Is there somewhere that describes the details of how to build/install the magnokinetic Judson dampers?

Thanks

Only quote I found and collected from Al at Steorn, when someone repeatedly asked for clarification on how the dampers were "adjusted"....


"...The dampers are tuned by trial and error. If too close they retard the magnet too much and it won't synch. Too far and there's no benefit. Once the distance is found, rotating a little at a time and trying the spin until I found a "sweet spot" is how I did it. The effect of the dampers is small, in any case..."

[ken_nyus]

To all replicators:

Are you using N35 or N42 rotor mags?

I think everyone has the same N42 stator ring mags.

[vipond50]

N42 Stator and N42 rotor mags

B.

[ken_nyus]

My understanding is Al used N35 for the rotor mags. I ordered N42 as per the parts list. (also rectangular rather than cylindrical).

[Dyamios]

To all replicators:

Are you using N35 or N42 rotor mags?

I think everyone has the same N42 stator ring mags.

Indeed, the fact that the flux strength seems to be stronger (perhaps overly strong) in Clanzer's replication appears to create a sort of "magnetic drag" type of situation which causes the rotor to come to a standstill sooner. Now.. if the device does indeed work, it seems this would increase the torque produced.

However, it may be critical for the flux strength between the stators and rotor to be within a certain key interval, and thus if the stator magnets are stronger, they should be moved farther away from the rotor.

Just a thought 

[CLaNZeR]

This may clarify the position of the stator magnets compared to the rotor:

quote:
"..., the relative height of the stator and rotor magnets seems important. I don't know if it's because of my particular geometry or whether it is critical to the effect itself, but the magnets shouldn't be in the same plane--that is, I am getting best results when the rotor magnets are rotating in a plane that is just slightly higher than the tops of the stator magnets, rather than down and centered vertically...."

Thanks for that Mike

I will try and raise them above. ummm maybe need some sort of adjustment mechanism here.
I could always cut a number of brass spacers in 1mm increments.

Will have a think on this.

Cheers

Sean.

[CLaNZeR]

Hi Just a quick post to state that i can get 500 rpm plus i.e. 511, 513, 524 rpm with a hand or finger start on the rotor with three 1/4" (6.35 diameter) cylinder mags/ slot. The rotor diameter is as per spec.
Bill

Good going Bill, is this with the Stator magnets in place?
What is the weight of your rotor?

Get some pictures up! I am feeling lonely here


Cheers

Sean.

[Bruce_TPU]

This may clarify the position of the stator magnets compared to the rotor:

quote:
"..., the relative height of the stator and rotor magnets seems important. I don't know if it's because of my particular geometry or whether it is critical to the effect itself, but the magnets shouldn't be in the same plane--that is, I am getting best results when the rotor magnets are rotating in a plane that is just slightly higher than the tops of the stator magnets, rather than down and centered vertically...."

Thanks for that Mike

I will try and raise them above. ummm maybe need some sort of adjustment mechanism here.
I could always cut a number of brass spacers in 1mm increments.

Will have a think on this.

Cheers

Sean.

Hi Sean,

You could perhaps use brass or rubber washers to lift up the rotor to the needed height.  I think you will find that difference will affect the synch, according to Al.

@ All,

I too received my magnets today!     My OCAL magneto judson dampers are on the way via the mail box.  (Sterling, they are simply solid aluminum 1/2" diameter, 1/4" thick round.  It has a hole in the center, large enough for a 4-40 screw, of brass or nylon to go through it, and thread into the base.  Please see Jason's drawing.pdf . )

Jason, Hank and I are going a different route than many.  We are attempting an exact replication.  We don't want to change a thing just yet.  In all honesty I am concerned about some "replications" I have seen on youtube.  I have seen bearings that look as if they came out of a rollerskate, it is so big.  People just using any old tid bits around.  Now if this works, will all of that, then great.  But if it does not, will those youtuber's scream, "It does not work!" When in reality, they have not replicated the OCAL, but rather their own interpretation of it, built with spit and tape. 

I am certainly NOT knocking peoples hard work.  But I want people to be prepared to ask hard questions, if someone claims that it does not work.  Cutting corners with such a rare "anomaly" as this, is not recommended.

There are still two dimensions Jason and I think are needed for exact accuracy, and Jason will post about that soon, for someone to ask Al.

Cheers,

Bruce