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Author Topic: Joule Ringer!  (Read 743158 times)

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #465 on: May 08, 2012, 09:10:38 PM »
Wouldn't it be great if we got 14 watt equivalent light with just 1.2 watts input.  No, the light will be brighter and brighter as you approach the watt rating of the CFL bulb.  What's remarkable is that this circuit can light this CFL at very low voltage or higher too.  A dimmable CFL is hard to do usually.
Lets say you run a solar charged battery and the battery is run down a bit.  The light will still come on.  Try that with an ordinary 12/120 volt inverter!

p.s. - take your time and really make sure the transistor is oriented correctly.  and that all other wires are placed correctly. You may want to mark on some paper around the transistor what goes where.  Its so easy to get something backwards and you'll blow the transistor, or it wont work.  Once you get it working notice the effect of your hand near the coil near the top vs bottom.  Hold an LED by one end and notice where it lights.  Try some AV plugs with LED or another CFL.  Fun, fun, fun !  As long as the primary goes end to end on the secondary I don't notice any tuning at all, or much difference how many turns the primary is.  That may affect volts vs amps though.  Yes, volts x amps = watts   

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #465 on: May 08, 2012, 09:10:38 PM »

Offline 27Bubba

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #466 on: May 09, 2012, 01:17:40 AM »
Simply avesome job by everybody. I'm going to try do the same thing as soon as my two 16V solar panels are finished. ;D

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #467 on: May 09, 2012, 06:36:13 PM »
Interesting thing about reverse biasing a transistor - power is 2-3 times less than rated max so you wont ever burn them up on 12 volts.  That is what I am seeing with my little 2N2222 which can handle 680 ma.  I am seeing 200-225 ma.  I don't know if it is possible but I will try paralleling two primary coils, two transistors on the one secondary.  I don't know if they will synchronize or if the bias voltage/current will be split and result in the same power output anyway, but I have the room on the coil for another primary, and I can just plug in another transistor.

LaserSaber used two primaries on his Super Joule ringer and left one unconnected.  LaserSaber also notes that the circuit self adjusts to load so maybe the transistors in parallel will both be biased equally and double power output for more load.  Or maybe this is totally unnecessary.

I am starting my DIY tutorial on YouTube tonight on how to make this single transistor air core coil lamp.  Parts for four lamps $16.  "Labor of love"

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #467 on: May 09, 2012, 06:36:13 PM »
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Offline b_rads

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #468 on: May 09, 2012, 07:51:54 PM »

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I am starting my DIY tutorial on YouTube tonight on how to make this single transistor air core coil lamp.  Parts for four lamps $16.  "Labor of love"

I very much look forward to the DIY.  I had very little time last night to rework my replication, but what I tried did not work.  Not happy with the wire I am using for L1, and will go purchase some new wire.  My local home improvement stores only carry 20 guage bell wire and RS has 22 guage hook-up wire.  Any preference on these two choices.  Please post the link to your DIY when completed.
Thanks,
Brad S

Offline SkyWatcher123

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #469 on: May 09, 2012, 09:50:16 PM »
Hi folks, I have not had much luck yet either with lynxsteams air coil lamp, though I did get a 13 watt gutted cfl to light up partially, think I have to make some changes to my primary-transistor combo, or use a smaller coil tower, less turns.
Though I did have fairly good success using my ferrite e-core salvaged from a TV.
I wound 6 layers of bifilar 24 awg wire for the oscillator part and almost fully fulled on top with 30 awg wire,it ran the 13 cfl, though not too bright.
Then I hooked 30 leds up to the secondary output and fried a few of the leds before disconnecting, way too much voltage for the leds in series, so I unwound many layers of 30 awg and it is brightly lighting 21 leds in series.
When using my 12 volt battery, draws 110 milliamps.
Leds are the way to go, though cfls are cheap and so are good alternative for short term emergency lighting.
Just to add, Before I wound the 30 gauge secondary, I used a 4 turn secondary of plastic insulated 18 gauge wire for powering leds in parallel and the resistance of that wire caused excessive heating of TIP42C transistor.
Then I removed the 18 gauge and used 24 gauge and it reduced the heat in the transistor to a large degree.
Though the 30 awg secondary powering leds in series seems to be the most efficient way to go, providing brighter leds for less input and less stress on the transistor.
Right now, I am using a wall transformer, rated 9 volts, 400 milliamps, which gives around 11.7 volts no load, which runs the leds pretty well, since I intend to use this as a bathroom light or hallway light, full time usage, with the idea in mind of quickly being able to switch to 12 volt battery if needed.
peace love light
tyson

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #469 on: May 09, 2012, 09:50:16 PM »
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Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #470 on: May 10, 2012, 06:06:34 PM »
The Lynx Joule Lamp is finicky if it isn't done right.  Since I am still experimenting I still can't say what's best.  But, this morning I wound the primary a lot more carefully on a larger diameter and amps dropped from .224 down to .093 with the same light.  But I had also reduced the turns so I am sure voltage was higher.  That was pretty neat on 6 volts to get that much light with a 1/2 watt. 
Tried it with 12 volts and fried the transistor with a flash on the bulb.  Voltage back to the base was probably exceeding the rating.
I will try to refine this setup as soon as possible so people don't get frustrated.  But here's my guess at to where it's headed.

Secondary, 8.5" long 500 turns 30 awg on 3/4" PVC (1.2" D)
Primary, 8.5" long 30 turns, solid heavy copper wire to hold shape on a 2" ID.

From there I will clip onto different turns of copper to determine best brightness on 12-14 volts without blowing the transistor.  30 turns is probably safe for 12 volts  because I know it works.  25 turns is brighter and is pushing it a little, but with the larger diameter primary it may be different.

I tried the two transistors, slightly brighter but not worth the trouble.  Better to carefully tune the circuit.

I am hoping for 12.4 volts x .200 amps = 2.48 watts to light the 40 watt equivalent bulb at half brightness (very bright).  This CFL is rated for 9 watts full brightness.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2012, 12:38:55 AM by hartiberlin »

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #471 on: May 10, 2012, 07:32:33 PM »
Here is a schematic showing where components go.  Its very important that the start and ends of coils go to the right place in the circuit.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2012, 12:46:35 AM by hartiberlin »

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #471 on: May 10, 2012, 07:32:33 PM »
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Offline hartiberlin

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #472 on: May 12, 2012, 12:48:40 AM »
I repaired the thread.
The last posted picture

Lynx Joule Ringer lamp circuit diagram

was somehow to big and a bit corrupted.

Regards, Stefan.


Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #473 on: May 20, 2012, 04:16:49 AM »
By request, here is a video of "How to make the SJR2.0"  I made some mods but followed the basic idea.  You can see that you can "hotrod" the basic joule ringer with more turns, you can use a tip2N3055, use magnet wire, skip the extra primary.  The LEDs light brightly off a 9 volt, or super bright off 12 volts.  I think a 11:1 ratio is necessary to get the voltage up so that the voltage doesn't drop too much across the bulbs.  But the 10:1 ratio is very low power draw.
Running two 110 volt bulbs off a small 9 volt really demonstrates what a Joule Thief does.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROwdzpbISB4

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #473 on: May 20, 2012, 04:16:49 AM »
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Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #474 on: May 21, 2012, 04:26:20 PM »
Something I should have mentioned in the video linked above.  Once the "Goop" adhesive sets up the ringing stops.  In the video the adhesive had only been on for about ten minutes.  And it will separate easily if you want to disassemble later.  The amount of adhesive actually between the E-cores is less than paper thin.

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #475 on: May 21, 2012, 05:08:57 PM »
Here is a chart for the four Joule Ringers Circuits I have made. 

SJR2.0 9:90 is an E core type using telephone wire.  Very close to what LaserSaber designed
SJR 2.0 16:200 is an E core type I made with bell wire and 30awg magnet wire
LJL 36:368 is an air core type using 12 awg primary and 20 awg magnet wire
LJL 68:680 is an aircore type using bell wire primary and 30 awg magnet wire
Bulbs were Utiltech 7.5 watt warm LED bulbs
Amps were measured into the DC leads to the primary
Input Voltage was 12 Volts
Brightness varied. Best for the Modded ECore.  Aircore types and SJR 2.0 about the same, at @60% brightness.
My conclusion?  Insulation on the wire is important.  Magnet wire is not the way to go even though it works.  This thicker insulation provides capacitance between turns which helps with the oscillation.  E-Core entraps almost all of the input energy and the single transistor efficiently converts to AC.  Very little wasted energy in this circuit.

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #475 on: May 21, 2012, 05:08:57 PM »
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Offline lasersaber

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #476 on: May 21, 2012, 06:19:38 PM »
Quote
My conclusion?  Insulation on the wire is important.  Magnet wire is not the way to go even though it works.

You got it.  I did lots of trial and error coming up with this design and one thing I learned was that the insulation on the wire is very important.  I want to explore this effect more.  In the past I have seen joule ringers running lights with the base on the transistor completely disconnected. :o   If you then connect the base to a large antenna and ground one of the free primary wires you can achieve some pretty strange stuff!  I plan on posting a video showing this kind of stuff soon.

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #477 on: May 21, 2012, 07:04:18 PM »
I have two more things to try.  This may help confirm the importance of a heavier insulated secondary. 

I am going to make another air-core LJL with 20 awg bell wire on the secondary and 14 awg heavy insulated primary wire.  If there is no difference in power consumption we can attribute it to the low inductance of the air core, if there is a lower power consumption we can attribute it to the insulated secondary.

The other thing I will try is an aircore coil wound on a 1" ID x 2.5" OD, (Brooks coil).  I will use insulated bell wire, and wind the secondary with a Tesla Parallel winding on the outside of the primary and one without the parallel winding.

I may quietly try some of your magic tricks but wont still your thunder. :)

Offline conradelektro

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #478 on: May 21, 2012, 09:35:12 PM »
I still have not found the right core. Today I tried a toroid which I had from earlier Joule Thief experiments. I could not properly light big LED bulbs (5 Watt or 9 Watt), they blinked. Also unmodified CFLs only lit up a little. I could see a little light with incandescent bulbs, but the circuit behaved strangely.

The frequency was about 28 KHz. The circuit worked very well with a 2.5 Watt LED lamp (see the attached photo and circuit). I tried 3 turns, 6 turns and finally the 9 turns primary. For 10 to 14 Volt operation (12 Volt accumulator), the 9 turn primary worked best.

The little modifications I made to the circuit (copied from Lidmotor and Peanutbutter29) kept the transistor very cool and ensured start of oscillation at power on (down to 3 Volt).

I also tried a transformer core, but it must be a HF transformer core, because the frequency was about 110 KHz. Also, only the 2.5 Watt LED lamp worked nicely. I had the core in my collection since many years and do not know its specification any more.

It seems I need a core with a higher inductance to match the performance I see from Lasersaber's or Lynsteam's experiments. I guess the frequency has to go down to a few KHz and power transfer (through the transformer) up to at least 4 Watt in order to make stronger LED lamps and unmodified CFLs work.

I did not succeed to achieve a low frequency and high power transfer with air cores, therefore I am now exploring ferrite cores and toroids. It is difficult to get the US-cores and US-transformers in Europe, so I look for good replacements available over here.

Greetings, Conrad

Offline conradelektro

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Re: Joule Ringer!
« Reply #479 on: May 21, 2012, 11:03:13 PM »
I think I found a core comparable to Lasersaber's core:

Lasersaber recommends: http://www.surplussales.com/Inductors/FerPotC/FerPotC-2.html

I found: http://at.farnell.com/ferroxcube/etd54-28-19-3c90/core-half-etd54-3c90/dp/3056429 (two required)
             http://at.farnell.com/ferroxcube/cph-etd54-1s-22p/bobbin-etd54-1-section-22pin/dp/137029 (bobbin)
             http://at.farnell.com/epcos/b66396a2000x/clip-etd54/dp/1422754 (clip)

May be some knowledgeable people could comment?

Greetings, Conrad

 

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